The Bullet: Mysteries
& Myths -
Don't just love but get to
know your bullet more
- by B. R. Gurunandan
Physics and the art of
starting a Bullet : Part 1 - The starting drill
Yes, a
laughably simple proposition for us veterans. Except... when, with the
traffic lights having gone green and the bus behind you inching up
impatiently, you have muffed one attempt and are struggling with the
decompressor to "initialize" your engine again! A very rare but a
highly memorable nightmare !
So what is the reason for this elaborate "starting drill" in Bullets,
compared to the simple "just kick it till it starts" system on other
two-wheelers? The Bullet engine rotates through just about one cycle
per kick, while other engines go through several. This means you have
only one spark per kick, and if you don't have the correct
mixture-strength, the correct spark-strength, and sufficient
compression during that, well, better luck next kick ! Not so in other
engines, where the the mixture and spark have several "chances" to
reach correct levels during each kick.
What is the reason for this difference? The Bullet engine is
approximately 3 times the capacity of others. As a crude approximation,
it would require thrice the effort to kick like a 2-stroke. Not
something you would enjoy unless you take after Arnold S. !
Then about the positioning of piston before kicking: "The book" tells
you that before you kick, the engine should be in the position where
the ammeter has JUST COME BACK TO ZERO.
Nandan tells you what it means: You start your
kick JUST after the sparking position, so that you have the
power-stroke, the exhaust-stroke, and the intake-stroke in which to
accelerate the piston (and the flywheels) which start decelerating on
the compression-stroke and yet have enough momentum to go thru the TDC -Top Dead
Centre- when the engine will start -and keep running by
itself. Yes, if you can imitate Bruce L., or if your
engine has slightly less compression (but still enough
to run properly) then you can start it from other
positions as well.
And then we come to the infamous Back-Kick ! Even the illiterate
mechanic's apprentice knows that it is due to "advance",
but....sometimes there are doubts! Such as when the back-fire is felt
only when the throttle is open, and not if you kick with throttle
closed ! Or, if on retarding the timing, the exhaust bent-pipe begins to
become blue ! The i.m.'s a. is stumped, but you can analyse what is
happening !
It's just this:
Your kick builds up the momentum of the flywheel+piston initially, and
part of that energy is used to compress the mixture during the
compression stroke, slowing the piston proportionally. So, if the
throttle was opened, allowing more air into the engine, the piston
slows down more, and the combustion-front hits the piston BEFORE it
passes the TDC, resulting in the reversal of direction of rotation
--the Back-Kick! So either you kick harder, or you retard the ignition
timing.
So, OK, you retard the timing. And soon you notice the exhaust pipe is
beginning to go blue ! If this is the case ( It's not always so, of
course ) it may mean the carburettor has been set "lean" --leaner
mixture needs longer to burn. So it is still "burning" when it exits
from the engine and is going down the exhaust tube. Various adulterants
also may alter the burning-rates, causing much inconsistency and
mystery. If you know what must be happening, you can take the right
decision as to whether it needs a mechanic's attention or a temporary
change in adjustment, or is safe to be ignored.
The differences in fuel characteristics & carb setting,
ignition-timing & strength, compression-tightness, affect all
engines, but are noticed more easily in the Bullet because of the
reasons just discussed. That is also why each Bullet seems to require a
different "starting drill" particularly with regard to usage of choke.
The "choke" has some very wide-spread myths associated, but that is a
long story to which we will devote an entire session soon.
By B. R. Gurunandan
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